March 11, 2009 |
Short Order
After months of heavy-duty cleaning: Keith McNally brand new old Minetta Tavern. Photo: Steven Richter
Surely you didn’t think it would be easy to score a table at Minetta Tavern after that long, feverish obsessed countdown to opening day. As always, it’s who do you know? Keith McNally, of course, proprietor of Balthazar, Pastis, Morandi, Schiller’s Liquor Bar. His partners here in this amazingly light-handed rehab, Balthazar’s longtime co-chefs, Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson might have a say. “Everything just had to be cleaned,” manager Arnold Rossman says modestly. Hard to believe it's only the second night as I explore the menu – that creamy mussel classic Billi Bi soup, an unusual tasting of tartare (veal, lamb and beef), roast chicken remarkably juicy and crisp and the luscious Black Label prime burger piled with caramelized onions. From our table with a view, I can wave hello as brother Brian drops in to schmooze familiars.
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